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Club at Legian: private

Not far from here the Resor Seminyak Resort & Spa offers comfortable landscaped grounds and a Balinese Herbal Spa specialising in herbal treatments, massage and reflexology.
Farther up the coast is the inviting Novus Bali Villa (formerly Canggu Puri Merta) where assorted treatments are on tap. Still heading north is the refreshingly different Hotel Tugu Bali with its antiques and artefacts and even a Walter Spies Suite, a replica of the home of the German artist who did much to popularise Indonesia. This is a traditional chic place with towering timber pillars and beams in its lobby and billowing gauze curtains. The spa treatment pavilions are all moulded from different inspirations. This is perhaps the secret of Tugu's charm. Lots of wood, antiques, incense, water features, bright colours, and a nice laid back atmosphere. Hotel Tugu Bali is a somewhat secluded option heading up towards Tanah Lot Temple and it is set in verdant paddy fields.

The Waroeng Djamoe Spa at Tugu Bali, is a Jamu exponent drawing upon local herbs and flora like the frangipani, magnolia, rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang. Treatments may be enjoyed in your inroom massage bed, in a treatment room, or in an outdoor balé. To really go all the way, and I mean ALL THE WAY, buckle in for an eight-hour Gemulai Penari Bali involving scalp massage, floral bath, a Balinese dancer massage, body scrub, a light gourmet lunch, hydro treatments, Jacuzzi and plunge pool. Some of the spa rooms offer choreographed Balinese massages where the hands and pressure application follows the flow and ebb of the gamelan orchestra. The Gemulai Penari is around US$480 per couple.

Keep on up the coast and you'll arrive at the Le Meridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort Bali. Situated just across from the famous Tanah Lot temple that is accessible only at low tide, the resort is set in 100 expansive acres of rice fields and greens of the award-winning Greg Norman golf course. The Penguin Club will keep your kids entertained while you slip away for a romantic rubdown. For an independently-run establishment, a nice choice in Kerobokan is the Antique Spa (tel: 739-840). The place is minimalist but chic and has its very own signature "Kamasutra" treatment - the whole works pretty much.


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