A panoramic spot with open, refreshing views. In the vicinity is the quiet Komaneka Suites with its simply named Spa. The Spa at Komaneka has all the usual herbal wraps and scrubs along with some rather different aromatic massages - the Ubud Spice, with ginger, cloves and nutmeg, among them. Or try the Bali Sunny. This utilises a blend of mint, citronella, patchouli and citrus. A 90-minute Lulur Mangir session is around US$50. A package like Komaneka Royal includes two-and-a-half hours of aromatherapy massage, Lulur Mangir and a herbal bath.
A real gem is the Puri Wulandari which describes itself as a boutique resort and spa. That is pretty accurate. The resort is in a superb garden setting with fabulous across-the-river views and lovely villas, some with valley-edge plunge pools. The Lila Ulanguan Spa is a very pleasant affair. This is a dedicated area for rest and relaxation. A Balinese massage is around US$50 (75min) and a half-hour Sea Salt Scrub is just US$25. The spa utilises remedies passed down through generations of Balinese healers and there nice open views of rice fields. Making a smart comeback is Kupu Kupu Barong a Hobbit-style villa reserve on the Ayung gorge. The Tree Spa has been created out of silk and wood and is sited atop a mango tree, overlooking the valley. It's a firm perch despite the description. Villas offer vertiginous views of the river - and some rather steeps steps to get to breakfast. Fortunately, a butler can be arranged to do all the running about. This is one of Bali's oldest boutique hotels (it opened in 1986 as a restaurant) and is worth a look in.
Puri Wulandari spa plunge pool
A small and neat spot on the Ubud main street is the Aniniraka Resort & Spa, a trendy sort of place, compact and friendly. Aniniraka is surrounded by lush paddy fields and a small upstairs restaurant.
Sanur area spa resorts
The civilised east coast of Sanur that catches the sunrise is host to several nice properties. The aforementioned Bali Hyatt runs a wonderful spa and the charming twin resorts Puri Santrian and Griya Santrian offer the Santrian Spa where ample sea salt foot baths, lulur scrubs and traditional massage await.
Pemuteran, the North, East Coast, Tembok
Heading up to the far north of Bali and its forgotten shores of Pemuteran and Lovina, there is a clutch of properties to choose from. The lovely Damai Villas, perched on a hillside, offers eight bungalows and a simple but super restaurant as well as a spa pavilion looking onto paddy fields. The Matahari Beach Resort & Spa is on a black sandy stretch near Pemuteran and heading west along the coast, the 129-room low-rise Sunari Villa & Spa Resort (formerly Sol Lovina) offers spa treatments.
Puri Ganesha Villas is the place that put reclusive Pemuteran on the map. This charming property offers four two-storey thatched roof Balinese-style villas on a generous 400sq m of beachfront. It is a bit of a stretch from the airport but then, the best things in life don't come easy. A great place for a long, slow detox.
